Archive for the 'Fashion History' Category

How to Manage Your Image “Old Hollywood” Style

Thursday, February 28th, 2008

Back in the “Golden Age” of Hollywood, movie stars were glamorous. They looked good in every film, at every premiere, and at every awards show and their loyal fans lined up to see their movies and buy magazines in which they appeared. Whenever a camera was trained on them, they looked like they moved in a rarified circle, beyond the reach of moral men. Sure, they had their problems, but the bad stuff was usually kept off the front page and well out of sight. Only the shine showed through.

Fast forward to today. The glamour has been replaced by scandal and sensation, and we’re more likely to see a mug shot or a crash site photo than shots of gifted performers enjoying the jet set life. Movie star style has been replaced by stylists and designer product placement, and many celebrities are better known for their off-screen antics than their on-screen roles.

So what changed?

The decline of the studio system and the rise of multi media.

In the 1930’s and 40’s, Hollywood studios controlled everything in film production, from finding and cultivating talent to distributing movies in the theaters. Like giant factories, each studio would crank out thirty to sixty movies a year and maintain a stable of actors, writers, directors, and behind-the-scenes people to plug into those projects as needed. Lead actors might work on three or four movies a year; minor, supporting actors might work on ten or fifteen. Most movies were shot on the studio lots on a tight budget and short time frame, and only the most bankable actors or directors could pick and choose their projects. Usually, movies were assigned. If a talent didn’t like a film, that was too bad; if he wined or complained, he could be cut from projects, loaned to other studios, or even dropped from contract. It was a bottom-line, formulaic business, and creativity - while important - always came second. All that control was the bad part about studios.

The good part was that they truly cultivated their people. They took raw talent and turned it into box office gold through training and careful grooming. Actors and actresses were taught how to dress, walk, talk, and behave like movie stars. Some got new hair and new makeup; others got new names and new noses. This training was so complete, in fact, that when the “Best Dressed” lists first appeared in the early 40’s to stimulate the war-trodden fashion industry, movie stars were kept off the list because they had the unfair advantage of being dressed by their studios. Studios also managed to keep a lot of bad behavior out of the headlines because it was bad for business and chipped away at the Hollywood mystique.

That history came to mind as I watched the Oscar™ Red Carpet pre-show the other night. As one actress strolled down the red carpet in haute couture, chomping on a wad of chewing gum while cameras flashed away, another bragged to an interviewer that she would never get out of her jeans if it weren’t for the amazing work of {insert popular stylist name here}.

Wow.

They can command millions for their work but they can’t dress themselves properly or chew with their mouths closed? Hmm. Kind of makes you wonder just what warrants those big paychecks. It also makes me want to wait until their films hit cable instead of paying full price at the theater. There’s no mystery with these people. They’re just the “average Joe.”

That’s what set the “Old Hollywood” crowd apart. Those stars didn’t seem average. They seemed beyond reach. They were like the cool kids in school, moving in an elite circle that others wanted to be part of but just couldn’t quite manage to swing. Even today, fifty, sixty, seventy years later, you can watch a movie from that era and have that sense of wonder and awe. What would it be like to hang out with Katherine Hepburn, Carole Lombard, Humphrey Bogart, or Clark Gable? What could you learn from Bette Davis or Joan Crawford? What beauty tips could you glean from Veronica Lake or Marilyn Monroe?

Yes, there are celebrities today that people clamor to see. But will their popularity survive the test of time? It’s hard to say. The biggest blockbusters these days seem to be heavy on the special effects and light on the talent and storylines. Will the “A-Listers” of today even be remembered fifty years from now?

Will you?

If you’re busy following the crowd, trying to fit in or “keep up with the Joneses”, you probably won’t be. Sorry, but if life is like a casting call and you’re just like everyone else, how can you expect to stand out? The only way you can realistically shoot for a larger part/a better title/a bigger paycheck is if you bring “something extra” to the table that no one else does.

For some, it’s better skills or a unique skill that no one else has. For others, it’s a better wardrobe or manners that make the difference. For “A-Listers,” it’s a combination of both: good skills and proper packaging. Such finesse will set you apart from your peers today, and make you the standard bearer in your field for years to come.

Here’s how to strive for it:

1. Take a good, honest look at your current skills. What’s good? What’s not so good? What could use some work? If your skills are good, then strive to add a unique but related skill to set yourself apart. If a “triple threat” in Hollywood is someone who can act, dance, and sing, what’s a “triple threat” in your industry? Someone who can research, write, and speak? Create, market, and administer? Play, perform, and coach? Think about it and expand your skills.

2. Take a good, honest look at how you dress. Is your wardrobe appropriate for your position and industry? Do you know what to wear at different levels in your career? Do you know how to dress appropriately for different occasions? If not, then it’s time to find out.

3. Take a good, honest look at your manners. Could you dine at a fine restaurant or a backyard barbecue with equal ease? Do you know how to say “thank you” or receive praise with equal grace? Could you pass through a diplomatic receiving line without feeling like a fraud? If not, read books or take classes on etiquette. Nice manners are in short supply these days but still appropriate for every occasion.

4. In almost every industry, those who excel get pushed into the spotlight to speak, write, and teach others. Could you do so with confidence, knowing your skills and appearance are “up to snuff”? Or would you “freak out” and say NO to an invitation because you couldn’t stand the scrutiny? Plan for success by getting your writing and presenting skills in order now.

5. Finally, manage your public image with care. Respect your own privacy by setting boundaries of what you share with others. If you don’t want something repeated, don’t say it in the first place. If you don’t want racy photos published, don’t pose for them to begin with. If you have indiscretions in your past that you don’t want revealed, keep them hidden as best you can - and then come up with a good story to tell should they ever come to light. The Internet has enabled secrets and scandals to be flashed around the world in an instant, and those who seek to curtail your success will use your comments, bad photos, and secrets to “keep you in your place.” Don’t let them. Think before you speak, drink in moderation or not at all when in a group, and never behave like a spoiled teenager. Show class; don’t be crass.

Just reading through this list, you can see why “Old Hollywood” style seems in such short supply these days. Yes, it takes time and effort to groom yourself for a lead role in your industry or community. But you’ve probably already worked hard to get where you’re at; why not go that extra step and enjoy all the rewards that go along with it? You may be delighted by the new company you’ll keep.

Good luck!

, ,

Popularity: 10% [?]

10 Great Fashion Websites

Monday, July 30th, 2007

Where can you go to learn about the latest trends?  The history of fashion?  Clothing care and maintenance?

Online, of course!  There are lots of great sites out there that you can get lost in, reading about everything from celebrity fashion to haute couture. 

Here are a few of my favorites:

Style.comStyle.com
http://www.style.com

The home of W and Vogue on the web, Style.com has made many of my fashion magazines subscriptions obsolete.  You can learn about trends, runway reports, fashion icons, fashion designers and more just by perusing this site.  Take a look.

First View
http://www.firstview.com

Wish you could have a front row seat to all the best fashion shows in the world?  Well, here’s the next best thing.  Look at the current and past collections from famous designers from all over the world, and see the “who, what, where, when” of upcoming fashion shows.

Mode à Paris
http://www.modeaparis.com

Want to “dive right in” to the world of French fashion to learn about fashion history, designers, and upcoming shows?  Then this site is for you!  Find out which fashion houses meet the rigorous standards of the Chambre Syndical de la Haute Couture, and learn where you can study for a career in French fashion.

The Sartorialist
http://thesartorialist.blogspot.com/

Scott Schuman is a former fashion marketer and retail store owner who combined his love of great tailoring with fashion photography to create “The Sartorialist” blog.  Sartorial, which is a term used to describe tailoring and the tailoring trade, is the main focus of Scott’s quest as he seeks to photograph well-dressed people on the street.  What began as a fun way to share his photos just two years ago has turned into a fast-paced fashion career that sends him all over the globe as a reporter for Style.com and as a speaker to fashion and tailoring groups.

MSN Beauty and Fashion
http://lifestyle.msn.com/BeautyandFashion

UndressedMSN has lots of in-depth channels, like finance, food, gardening, and health.  Their fashion channel is excellent, offering behind-the-scenes videos, interviews, and articles that you don’t see anywhere else.

If you like snarky celebrity fashion reviews, then MSN entertainment writer/fashion critic Kat Giantis will have you laughing out loud.  Her reports are not kind, but they do show how celebrities can still stumble fashion-wise even when they have an army of stylists at their disposal.  Check out her “Undressed” reports here:

http://entertainment.msn.com/

Instyle
http://www.instyle.com

INSTYLE Magazine’s website has come a long way from the days when you could just go there to subscribe to their magazine.  You can still do that, but you can also look at trends, get ideas for entertaining, vote on you favorite celebrity looks, and even learn where to copy those looks for less.  It’s a fun site, especially if you’re into celebrity fashion.

Ralph Lauren
http://www.ralphlauren.com

Ralph LaurenOne of the things I like about the Ralph Lauren site is that it understands what people are looking for online.  While many other designer sites take a long to time to load, are bloated with graphics, and don’t sell directly from their site, RalphLauren.com loads relatively quickly and is easy to navigate.  You can buy clothes, subscribe to the ezine, and get TONS of styling ideas from the gorgeous pictures.  They also have a style section to show you how to put things together.  Awesome!  Would that other designers would take some notes from Ralph . . .

Fashion Era
http://www.fashion-era.com

Love fashion history?  Want to see which trend-setters have influenced fashion over the centuries?  Need to do research on what people wore in 1800?  1900?  2000?  Then this is THE place to find out.  This comprehensive site is one of the most popular on the web, with good reason:  it has TONS of information!

Fabric Link
http://www.fabriclink.com

Want to learn more about different types of fabrics?  Need to know how to maintain the fabrics you have?  Fabric Link can help.  Take a good look around their “Fabric University,” and you’ll learn everything you need to know about taking care of most fabrics.

Biz Rate
http://www.bizrate.com

Looking for something in particular, like a black cocktail dress or sweet deals on Christian Louboutin shoes?  Just go to Bizrate.com, type in your item, and it will find places on the web that are selling what you seek.  It also lists price and costumer reviews.  What a time saver!

So there you have it.  Take some time to click around to these sites when you have some time, and either bookmark them or keep this list handy for future reference.  You never know when these sites will come in handy.

 

, ,

Popularity: 15% [?]

The Secret to French Chic

Thursday, July 12th, 2007

From fabulous food and fine wine to elegant fragrances and amazing clothes, the French have long been known for their decadent luxuries.  Champagne was invented here, as was haute couture.  Then there’s the chocolate, paintings, and dare I say it?  Kisses.  Small wonder exports and tourism are staples of the French economy.

So with easy access to some of the world’s most desirable goods, you’d think every French woman would have a big waistline and a huge closet.  But they don’t.  Just as “French Women Don’t Get Fat,” (according to author Mireille Guiliano), chic Parisiennes don’t have closets full of clothes.  They don’t need them.

The secret is moderation.

Paris was first settled as a fishing village more than two thousand years ago.  While it’s been burned, rebuilt, invaded, and occupied many times since then, the core of the city is still hundreds of years old.  The roads are narrow, the buildings are old, the apartments are small.  So are the closets and bathrooms.  Full size refrigerators are scarce and weekly food shopping trips are unheard of.  Where would you put a week’s worth of groceries?  For that matter, where would you store a season’s worth of clothes?

You wouldn’t.

You’d keep a small inventory of staples and add new things with care.  If you buy something new, something old has to go.  There just isn’t space for both.

So how can French women be so chic when they can’t buy new things all the time?

They:
1.  Learn what styles look good on them (and which don’t) early on
2.  Buy a handful of good quality, neutral-colored staples that they can mix and match with each other for maximum wear
3.  Add one or two new trendy pieces each season and wear them out
4.  Invest in high quality everyday bags and shoes
5.  Have one or two high end scarves or other accessories that they wear all the time
6.  Get a facial every month to keep their skin looking good
7.  Maintain a fuss-free hairstyle
8.  Pay cash for everything

The French, like the Germans, have a history of saving and are adverse to personal debt.  To stay in budget, they don’t do a lot of impulse buying, and they indulge in their local luxuries very little or in moderation.  Why buy a dozen handbags in different shapes and colors when one in a neutral, basic shape does the trick?

What?  Too boring, you say?  Not enough variety?

Not true!

All it takes is a little imagination. 

Start with basic pieces that look good on you.  Find tops that fit, jackets that flatter, and pants and skirts that feel and look good. 

Then study the latest fashion magazines and websites to see the latest trends.  Try to re-create or simply evoke the look with pieces you ALREADY HAVE in your closet.  You may just need a new jacket or some updated pants to look current.  Or, maybe a new, trendy accessory can breathe new life into your old favorites.  You don’t have to follow every trend.  Learn which styles look best on you and just update them as the seasons pass.  Or, pass them by if they don’t flatter. 

This simple mantra is how the French look chic AND still manage to live within their budgets and with their miniscule closets.  You can too.  You don’t have to have a big budget or a lot of clothes to dress well.  All it takes is a little practice and creativity.  Learn what styles look good on you, choose your pieces wisely, and wear them in many different ways until they wear out.

Or, in the words of designer Jil Sander, “Think more, buy less.”

Wardrobe MagicNeed some more help trying to determine the best looks for your body, lifestyle, and budget?  Download a copy of WARDROBE MAGIC:

http://www.wardrobemagic.com

to see how easy looking good can be.

Happy Bastille Day to all my French readers!

, ,

Popularity: 9% [?]

Fashion History: The Tutors

Monday, June 4th, 2007

One of my guilty pleasures this spring has been watching “The Tutors” on Showtime.  Set during the final years of Henry VIII’s marriage to Catherine of Aragon, the series shows Henry’s infatuation with Anne Boleyn and his frustrations in obtaining a divorce from the Pope in order to marry Anne.  It’s a bit melodramatic and historically inaccurate, but I must confess that I’m hooked.  The people are beautiful, the settings are breathtaking, and the costumes are amazing.  Look for them to win both Emmy and Golden Globe awards in the coming year.

In the meantime, those of you hooked on fashion history might enjoy Showtime’s special series about the costumes, at the bottom of their “Special Features” page.  It’s in streaming video, which you may or may not be able to see clearly, depending on your broadband speed.

Just thought you’d like to know –

Diana

 

, ,

Popularity: 7% [?]

Stanley Marcus Saw the Future

Monday, November 20th, 2006

Do you know the story of Neiman Marcus?

Herbert and Carrie Marcus were brother and sister, and they sold ready-to-wear and made-to-order clothes at different shops in Dallas in the early 1900’s.  They were both very good at what they did (21 year-old Carrie’s commissions were $100 a week when the average professional made about $40 a week), but they grew increasingly unhappy with their respective employers, who were sacrificing quality and service to cut costs.  A few years later, after Carrie married one of Herbert’s co-workers, a man by the name of Al Neiman, Carrie, Al, and Herbert decided to open a luxury department store that catered to the nouveau riche oil boom barons in eastern Texas.  They pooled all their money, borrowed more from friends and family, and while Herbert and Al oversaw construction in Dallas, Carrie took a train to New York to buy inventory.

In September 1907, Neiman Marcus opened.

It was an instant success.  The initial inventory that Carrie brought back sold out in 48 hours and they had to wait nearly six weeks for more to be shipped from New York.  They started with women’s fine ready-to-wear apparel, and eventually added menswear, children’s wear, and home goods.  Their attention to details and service kept the “who’s who” of Dallas society enthralled, and as the department store became more and more famous, they started attracting people from all over, including Houston, New Orleans, Denver, Hollywood — and even New York.

Carrie Neiman held weekly fashion shows to show her customers how to wear the latest styles.  In 1938, Herbert’s marketing-savvy son, Stanley, created the Neiman Marcus Award for Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion, which is awarded annually to fashion designers (like Coco Chanel) and women of style (like Grace Kelly), who have greatly influenced fashion.  In 1960, inspired by journalists searching for holiday feature stories, Stanley and his brother Edward created the “His and Hers” gifts that have become a staple in the legendary Neiman Marcus Christmas catalog.

But Stanley’s innovations didn’t end there.  According to a recent article in WWD.com, Stanley predicted that one day customers would use “phonovision” to see and order Neiman Marcus goods via a video-like phone — way back in 1966.  His contemporaries laughed.

But Stanley wasn’t that far off the mark:  when the Internet became a viable medium, Neiman Marcus was among the first luxury retailers to put up a website.  NeimanMarcus.com went live in 1999, and today, internet and mail order sales account for nearly 20% of Neiman’s annual sales.

So do people really order $500 pairs of shoes and $7,000 worth of jewelry online?  Absolutely — every day.  The Internet has become the shopping venue of choice for busy professionals and for those who like to shop for famous brands without leaving their home.  As always, Neiman Marcus anticipated their customers’ needs.  While many luxury brands are still debating whether doing business online would “cheapen” their brand name, Neiman Marcus is doing $650 million worth of business online every year. 

So what would Herbert, Al, Carrie, and Stanley think of Neiman Marcus these days?  No doubt they’d be trying to think of new and innovative ways to keep their customers coming back for more…

–Diana

No Tags

Popularity: 8% [?]

A Red-Letter Day for Hosiery

Tuesday, October 24th, 2006

Did you know that on this day in 1939, nylon stockings were sold for the first time in Wilmington, Delaware by the DuPont Corporation?  They’d been introduced at the World’s Fair earlier in the year and were met with wild enthusiam.

Why?

Because before nylon, stockings were typically made out of silk, which was delicate and expensive, or cotton, which was durable and affordable, but also very hot.  Nylon offered the delicacy of silk without the expense, and women rejoiced.  They also snapped them up in record amounts.

When the United States entered World War 2 in 1941, Du Pont stopped making nylon stockings and started using the nylon for parachutes instead.  Fashionable women, ever resourceful, went bare-legged and drew a line down the back of their legs to give the illusion of stockings (hosiery was cut and sewn together in those days, before the introduction of the tubular weaving machines used today). 

When Princess Elizabeth married Prince Philip in November 1947, she was given thousands of pairs of nylon stockings as wedding gifts from her subjects – a sign of devotion yet sacrifice in the United Kingdom, where nylon stockings were heavily rationed in the years following the war.

Just thought you’d like to know …

Diana

No Tags

Popularity: 17% [?]