Archive for the 'Newsletter' Category

My Biggest Wardrobe Blunders

Tuesday, July 1st, 2008

Not long ago when I was chatting with a friend, she told me about an upcoming function she was attending and what she planned to wear. My confusion must have shown on my face, because she immediately looked alarmed and said, “You don’t think that’s a good idea?” I told her no and explained why: she was planning on wear a casual day dress to a formal event.“But no one around here dresses up!” she protested. I suggested that she call someone else who was going and get her take on the matter. She did, and I was right: people dressed up for this event. Melissa was relieved she’d learned it ahead of time instead of going underdressed and feeling like a fool all night.“Don’t you ever make mistakes?” she demanded. I had to laugh. If only she knew!Yes, I’ve make P-L-E-N-T-Y of wardrobe mistakes over the years, particularly when I was younger. “Experience is the toughest teacher,” as the saying goes. “It gives the test first and the lesson later.” Fortunately, some of my biggest blunders occurred when I was with my family, so my career wasn’t threatened.Unfortunately, some of my biggest blunders occurred when I was with my family, so they’ve never let me forget them. One of the tales is still making the rounds 25 years later, earning cackles from a whole new generation. You gotta love your family – Anyway, to show you I’m just as human as the next girl, here’s a count down of my top five wardrobe blunders that taught me, trial-by-fire, what does and doesn’t work:5. Shoe In After buying a pretty new pair of fabric high heeled sandals one time when I was about sixteen, I decided to wear them for the first time to a cousin’s birthday party. My father took one look at my ensemble as we were getting ready to leave and said, “Go change your shoes.” I didn’t want to. When my mother distracted him, I snuck off and got in the car, disregarding his command. “What could my old man possibly know about fashion?” I reasoned.More than I did, as it turns out. The party was at my cousin’s farm. After standing near the barbeque pit, taking a tour of the barn, and walking through a pasture to look at a new foal, about the only thing left to do with those shoes after I got home was to throw them in the trash. They were completely ruined.To his credit, my father didn’t say, “I told you so.” At least, not in those same words. It was closer to, “You know, there’s a reason most people wear sturdy shoes around a farm.” Lesson learned: Don’t always disregard unwanted advice, especially when it comes from someone who doesn’t often voice an opinion. Instead, ask a few pertinent questions, like: Why?4. Lillies in the Snow Back when I worked at a non-profit organization in Houston, my boss and I flew to a software training class in Minneapolis. It was the end of April and a beautiful spring - in Houston. In Minneapolis, it was snowing. We landed in a blizzard.The next morning, we reported to our training class in our business attire: Pat in her lovely lavender suit, and I in my teal. We felt kind of silly, wearing spring colors in the snow. But when everyone else - including the instructor - showed up for the training class wearing jeans and sweaters, we really felt stupid. The trainer got kind of sheepish as she looked us over from head to toe. “I guess I should have mentioned that we’re pretty casual around here.”Yes, she should have. But then again, we should have asked. Lesson learned: ALWAYS verify the weather and dress code before you travel someplace for a function. People dress differently in different places, so always check to see what’s appropriate. NEVER assume anything.3. I’d Rather Be Blue A few days before my brother’s wedding, we went to a cousin’s house for a big family barbeque. Laughing and carrying on, someone got the bright idea to start throwing people into the swimming pool - with their clothes on! The first victim: my future sister-in-law. Nothing like a little “welcome to the family” dunking to liven things up a bit&ldots;Anyway, before it was all over, one of my sisters and I also ended up in the pool fully dressed. It was all fun and games - until we went to change. We’d both worn brand new jeans for the occasion, and the unwashed denim mixed with the chlorine from the pool had an interesting effect: it turned our legs blue. A grayish, greenish blue that did not come off easily. We scrubbed and rubbed and loofahed until our legs burned, but that dye would not come off. My mother was beside herself. We’d be wearing short dresses to the wedding; as sisters of the groom, who WASN’T going to notice our blue legs?My grandmother finally presented a solution: “Make a paste of lemon juice and baking soda and rub it on your skin. It will come right out.” Luckily, it did.Lesson learned: “Wash before wearing” doesn’t mean wash WHILE wearing, particularly with colors that might bleed or run. Failing that, always keep a few skin-friendly bleaching agents handy, like lemon juice, seltzer, and vinegar. 2. Who Wears Short Shorts?The first time the shorts suit came into vogue in the early 90’s, I felt the need to partake of the trend. I selected a salmon-colored jacket with royal blue trim and matching blue shorts (Hey! It was the early ’90’s). I paired it with a cream colored shell (blouse) and royal blue heels. The outfit earned rave reviews from the fashionistas at the non-profit where I worked, so I decided to wear it for an important meeting my boss and I had with our tax accountant at a stuffy Big Eight accounting firm in downtown Houston.As we wandered through the maze of halls en route to the meeting room, people literally stopped to stare at me. Men came out of their offices to watch me walk by. It was all very ego-gratifying.Until –

I needed to use the ladies’ room an hour or so later. I’d slipped off my jacket and was wondering the halls in my shell, shorts, and heels. I came around a corner and bumped right into a stocky, short fellow with bad hair, bad breath, and a bad tie. He looked me over in a way that made my skin crawl and said:

“How much?” It took a moment for his words to register. When they did, I was outraged. I spun around, went back to the meeting room, put on my jacket, and kept my mouth shut the rest of the day.Is that why they’d all stared at me, because they thought I was a hooker? Good heavens! I never wore that suit again.

Shorts Suit
MetroStyle.com
Tame by today’s standards, a similar suit (my shorts were about 3″ shorter) got me propositioned in the early ’90’s.

Lesson learned: Always err on the conservative side, particularly when dealing with people in traditional fields. You’ll be taken more seriously and get more respect. 1. Wedding Bell FoolWhen a cadet I knew at the Air Force Academy invited me to his Fall Formal, Mother and I started looking for a gown befitting a military ball. After several days of fruitless searching, Mother decided to sew it herself. We found a Vogue pattern with a fitted bodice, puff sleeves, and full skirt, and we decided it would look lovely made up in a cranberry-colored taffeta. It did. I felt like a princess.But making the dress had sorely tested my mother’s immediate-level sewing skills. The pins kept popping out of the slick fabric and the full skirt was cumbersome and hard to work with. So I wasn’t entirely surprised when she suggested that I wear it again for a cousin’s evening wedding two months later. She could shorten the hem from floor to knee length, and I could get another wearing out of this dress she had worked so hard to create.On paper, it looked good. But as I walked down the aisle to my seat in that small rural church in Tina, Missouri, population 206, I felt like a fish out of water. Remember that scene in “Enchanted” where Giselle climbs out of the manhole in her voluminous dress only to be gawked at by all those jaded New Yorkers? Well, that’s kind of how I felt, only my audience was a bunch of open-mouthed farmers who looked at me like I’d lost my mind.By evening’s end, they were sure I had. Why?Well, let’s just say that when the reception started at the local union hall, I was taken aback that the champagne was being served in paper Dixie cups; by about the fourth or fifth drink, I really didn’t care how it got to me so long as it kept coming. We all danced, decorated the getaway truck with shaving cream, and generally acted like idiots. Or at least, I did. There’s a blackmail picture circulating among my family of me in a droopy taffeta dress covered in shaving cream with shoes off, hosiery destroyed, and looking like thirty miles of bad road. Which is how I felt the next morning after drinking all that champagne.That was in 1982. The last time we were all together a few years ago, my cousins were sharing the tale with THEIR children, and laughing all over again. (People! Let it go!) Lessons learned: 1. Over-dressing for a wedding is as inappropriate as under-dressing, particularly if it pulls attention away from the bride. 2. If your behavior doesn’t match your costuming, you could become a laughing stock. (Trust me on this one.)So — a few laughs at my expense. I’m okay with that, especially if it’s caused you to think about a few of your own fashion faux pas and analyze them again from the perspective of time and distance. We all make mistakes. Some are big; some just SEEM big at the time. Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to think through various situations BEFORE you go to minimize errors. A little planning can make a big difference. Still, things happen that are beyond your control (like being tossed in the swimming pool); try to handle the situation as graciously as possible and strive to do better next time.

Need some more help in averting wardrobe disasters? Download a copy of BUSINESS WEAR MAGIC to learn how to dress properly in the one place where it can matter the most: at work.

http://www.businesswearmagic.com

Business Wear Magic

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Warm Weather Forget-Me-Nots

Thursday, June 26th, 2008

With the kids out of school and everyone needing a break, we piled into the car and headed to Hershey, Pennsylvania, the town built around a chocolate factory and home to HersheyPark. Crowded with people from all walks of life looking for a little R&R, the amusement park offered an interesting view of how people dress when they’re at their most casual – and how careless some can be when they think no one’s looking.

If you’ve scheduled some free time over the next few months, remember that just because you’re on vacation doesn’t mean you should leave good taste at home. On the contrary. With just a little attention to detail, you can stand out in the sea of sloppiness and enjoy better service and better manners as you visit your favorite hot spots.

Here are some things to remember as you dress for the heat of summer:

Wear Clothes That Fit

If your shape is obscured in an oversized t-shirt, or if your clothes are hard to get on, uncomfortable to wear, or leave indentation marks on your skin when you take them off, they don’t fit. Wearing clothes that are too big makes you look sloppy, just as wearing clothes that are too small makes you look heavy. Don’t do either. Instead, be as demanding as Goldilocks and look for clothes that fit “just right.”

Way too Big!
Way too big!

Appropriate Coverage

Dimpled thighs, saggy upper arms, bellies that spill over waistlines – there are just some things that weren’t meant for public consumption. If your goal is to be well-dressed, take a realistic inventory of your body to determine your best and worst features. Then, use your clothing to camouflage the trouble spots and direct attention to your best parts.

Invisible Undergarments

Bras and panties are meant to offer support and provide an extra layer between your body and your clothes. Yes, they can be pretty and sexy, but intimate apparel isn’t meant for public display. Start with pieces that fit correctly and then keep straps and bands out of sight. Wear flesh-colored styles under white (NOT white under white), and always check your rear in the mirror to look for panty lines (boy-cut styles eliminate panty lines).

 

White bra under white top
White undergarments show through; wear flesh-toned colors instead

 

Perspiration Control

Dark and light colors hide perspiration; just about every other color shows it easily. If you’ll be standing around for long hours in the heat at amusement parks, backyard barbecues, or reunion picnics, opt for color combos that hide the sweat. White reflects sun, but dirties easily; black absorbs sun, but hides dirt. Keep that in mind as you dress for hot days.

Grooming 101

The more skin you reveal, the more grooming you need to do. Before you slip into that swimsuit or slide into those flip flops, make sure you’ve exfoliated and moisturized your skin, removed hair from parts usually covered by clothes (thighs, bikini area), and partaken of a pedicure. Otherwise, people will notice.

 
Woman in need of pedicure
Get thee to a nail salon!

Lighten Up

If you’ll be out in the sun a lot, keep makeup to a minimum. Heavy makeup looks like a mask in the sunlight, and will run and clog pores in the heat. Go easy on the foundation and powders and save the dark colors (burgundy, dark brown) for fall; pastels shades (pink, orange, plum) better evoke the season. Also lighten up on the perfume. Heavy musk scents are okay for winter; lighter florals work better for summer.

Adjust Your Routines

Because skin and hair tend to produce more sebum (oil) in warm weather, you may need to adjust your skin and hair care routines for the new season, depending on your activities. If you swim a lot, chlorine can really take a toll on skin and hair — particularly if you color your hair. Look for shampoos that counteract the effects of chlorine, or ask you hair stylist for a recommendation. Let your hair air-dry more often in warm weather to keep blow-drying damage down. Also, if you like to wear your hair up, vary the styles to reduce strain caused by clips, bands, and pins.

 

Bad hair day
Warm weather can be
hard on skin and hair

So what’s the bottom line?

Just because we tend to slow down in summer is no reason to take time off from dressing well. You’re not invisible. People will still look at you. Whether you want them to just gloss over you because you look just like everyone else — or do a double-take because you obviously don’t — is up to you. “The devil is in the details,” as they say. Attend to those details and see what a difference it makes.

Need some more tips on dressing well for the season? Download a copy of OCCASION MAGIC:

http://www.occasionmagic.com

To see how easy dressing well for various occasions can be.

Occasion Magic

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Popularity: 1% [?]

Swimsuit Buying Tips

Thursday, June 5th, 2008

Swimsuit.

Perhaps no other single word conjures up more emotion than this summer staple. Because women are SO critical of their bodies, shopping for a swimsuit ranks right up there with root canals and moving as one of life’s least-favorite activities. It’s not uncommon to try on two dozen swimsuits and not buy one.

But fear not. Whether you’re in great shape or just wish you were, there’s a swimsuit out there just for you.

Here’s how you can find it:

  • If you have a noticeable tummy bulge (tummy extends further out than your breasts), look for a suit with a tummy control panel and diagonal features (like dark stripes or a sarong style wrap) that help disguise the fact.

  • The most slimming styles for any shape have darker colors, moderately cut legs, and vertical or diagonal lines or prints.
  • Choose tummy control panels to slenderize.

Surplice style
AlwaysForMe.com

  • Always opt for the next size up in swimwear. This will give you added length, not added width.

  • Avoid halter strap styles if you have sloping shoulders.

  • Two-tone suits can be very flattering if the high color contrast is from the bust line upward. This draws the eye to the face.

  • Beware of high contrast at the waist or hip line if you are thick waisted or large hipped.

  • To make breasts look bigger, choose a top that’s a bright color or that has embellishments like ruffles or beading.

Two-tone swimsuit
Chadwicks.com

  • To make large breasts look smaller, opt for surplice (diagonal) wrap styles in a dark color.

  • If you are a C-cup or larger, look for swimsuits with underwires for a flattering lift.

  • Don’t try to hide wide hips or a round bottom under a flowing skirt or with a ruffle attached at the hip. Both will make the area look larger. Opt for high-cut legs and eye-catching details at the neckline instead to draw attention up and away from your hips.

  • If you feel the need to cover up your legs when you’re lounging by the pool or strolling through the hotel lobby, do so with a matching sarong that reaches to your knees or calves. Do not go longer than knee length if you are petite.

  • For a perfect fit, consider having a suit altered or even custom made. This is standard fair on the beauty pageant circuit, where a flattering fit is crucial. Contact reputable dressmakers or seamstresses in your area.

Sarong
JessicaLondon.com

PROPER SWIMSUIT CARE AND STORAGE

To keep your swimsuit looking its best and enjoy the maximum wear, take the time to care for it properly.

  • Hand wash in cold water with mild soap as soon as possible after wearing to get rid of suntan oil, chlorine, and salt water. Neglect destroys the spandex fibers, resulting in broken white threads on the fabric’s surface.

  • Hang to dry - but not in direct sun.

  • Do not machine wash your swimsuit unless the label says to do so. Never dry your suit in the dryer because the heat will damage the elastic.

  • Check the label before wearing. Some manufacturers recommend that you NOT wear the suit in hot tubs or whirlpools.

  • If you’ll be swimming a lot, get two suits so you’ll always have a dry one ready and waiting for you.

Don’t stress over finding “the perfect” swimsuit. There are plenty out there that can do you justice. Just play up your assets, conceal your trouble spots, and walk with confidence, whatever your shape or size.

Need a little help in determining your body shape and discovering the clothing elements that work best on your body type? Then download a copy of WARDROBE MAGIC,

http://www.wardrobemagic.com/

to see how easy looking good can be.

Wardrobe Magic

 

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Top Indicators of Your Social Class

Thursday, May 22nd, 2008

One morning not long ago as I was minding my own business in a dressing room at Macy’s, my sensibilities were assaulted by the sounds of three high school girls trying on prom dresses. As they grunted and tugged their way into various gowns using crude language laced with expletives, they discussed THEIR body parts, their boyfriends’ body parts, thongs, acne, and birth control. Then things got really crass.

Appalled and seeking escape, I skipped trying on half the garments I’d brought with me and was just leaving the dressing room when one of them mentioned a fellow classmate and one of the others snickered, “That girl has no class.”

Please!

Look, I don’t care if it WAS Macy’s, no one will ever mistake these girls for blue bloods. Their manners and language will keep them far away from polite society, just as their cutting school to shop for formalwear without their mothers will guarantee that they’ll be inappropriately dressed come prom night. The signs are all there.

When I mentioned the episode to some of the other mothers as I picked up my son from preschool that day, it sparked an interesting debate. What, exactly, is “class” and at what income level do you “switch” classes?

If only it were that easy!

Once upon a time, it was. The old hereditary caste system divided people by rank and occupation, and typically, those with the highest incomes were also at the top of the social ladder. But times changed. Merchant princes were born. Dynasties were founded on cotton and steel. An aristocratic title was no longer a guarantee of vast wealth.

Today, the concept of class remains complicated, because money doesn’t necessarily equal class. There are lots of people with money and no class (see opening paragraphs, above), just as there are lots of people with class but no money. Not all rich people live grandly, not all poor people live modestly. It’s not just about the money.

It’s a combination of things, the four most prominent factors being:

  • Occupation

  • Education

  • Income

  • Wealth

Let’s look at these a little closer:

    Occupation - what you do for a living makes a difference. A doctor or a lawyer is perceived as being higher class than a plumber or a brick layer because one category requires brains, the other requires brawn. Whether you use your head or your hands to make a living puts you in different classes.

    Education - a good education has been an indicator of class for millennia, for only those with money could afford to hire instructors. Today, most people who complete high school are considered middle class; those who receive a college or post-graduate degree move into a higher class. A degree from a college with a long history and difficult entrance requirements, like Oxford, Harvard, or the Sorbonne, confers greater status than one with minimal entrance requirements, like the local community college.

    Income - in the United States, you’re considered to be low income if you make less than $30,000 a year, middle income if you make $30,000 to $60,000 a year, and high income if you make more than $60,000 a year. The ultra wealthy are described as those making more than $200,000 a year.

    Wealth - how you hang on to and invest that income can put you in different classes. If everything you own, including your house, jewelry, retirement fund, etc., is less than $50,000, you’re considered low class. If it’s between $50,000 and $500,000, you’re middle class, and if it’s greater than $500,000, you’re in the upper class. If you have assets of more than $50 million, you’re considered ultra-wealthy.

So what’s YOUR social class? Here’s an interesting calculator to help you scientifically determine where you sit in the grand scheme of things (click on the “Components of Class” tab and use the drop-down menus to build your profile):

http://www.theclothingchronicles.com/class.htm

So what does all of this have to do with clothing and image?

In our society, we often say that “image is everything.” I don’t believe that. I think that how you look can get you in the door, but what you know will keep you in the room. This study of class confirms it.

Regardless, there are those who will try to fake their way into anything, including those class-questionable high school girls in the dressing room. Many think that money - or the appearance thereof - should grant them access to the highest echelons of society. But as we’ve just seen from the occupation/education/income/wealth variables, it just doesn’t work that way. There’s a lot more to it than the superficial.

So how can you determine someone’s probable class if you don’t know their background? It’s easier than you think. Don’t get distracted by the flashy exteriors some people hide behind. Here are the easy-to-identify indicators of your social class:

    1. How You Speak

    “An Englishman’s way of speaking absolutely classifies him,” sang Henry Higgins in “My Fair Lady.” “The moment he talks he makes some other Englishman despise him.”

    It’s true. How you speak reveals SO much about you that you can talk to someone on the phone for just a minute and accurately pinpoint his background. Accent, grammar, vocabulary - everything you need to know to tell where he’s from and how much schooling he’s had. Double negatives, letter dropping, poor grammar, and unchecked expletives indicate a lower class; proper grammar, ease of pronunciation, and a large vocabulary indicate a good education and thus, a higher class.

    2. How You Eat

    Good table etiquette, including knowing how to hold your fork and chewing with your mouth closed, is just one way you show your class at the table; another is what you consume. While each class has its own definition of “good food,” the differences are significant and a direct reflection of the food budget. The higher classes tend to favor small portions of a wide variety of high quality ingredients while the lower classes tend to opt for large portions of a handful of low quality ingredients. Hence, a distinct class difference in waistlines.

    The dining table is also one of the favorite testing grounds for potential employees and spouses, to see what they eat and how they manage their place settings. Many a promising candidate has been eliminated before dessert.

    3. How You Dress

    Clothing and accessories have been used as class indicators since ancient times, and they still are today. Modest, well-fitting, occasion-appropriate pieces in fine, natural fabrics are signs of an upper class; revealing, poor-fitting, occasion-inappropriate pieces in cheap, synthetic fabrics are signs of a lower class. In many cultures, wearing a lot of makeup or showing lots of skin (legs, arms, or cleavage), marks you as a prostitute (low-class).

    4. Your Manners

    How you treat others says a great deal about you. From simple courtesies like “please” and “thank you” to holding doors and keeping the radio volume low, when you show respect to others regardless of their position, it means that you are confident and comfortable with yourself — which is very classy. But when you’re oblivious to others or when you treat them poorly because you think you outrank them, it marks you as petty and low-class. Want to know what to expect of a potential employer, spouse, or in-law when they let their guard down? Watch how they treat waiters, doormen, and custodial personnel. It will tell you everything you need to know.

    5. Your Personal Library

    “You can tell a high-ranking man by the size of his library,” a mentor once told me, “and a low-ranking man by the size of his television.”

    Worldly people tend to read, travel, and ask questions. Unworldly people tend to sit, watch, and accept. When the small Library of Congress went up in flames at the hands of the British army in 1814, Thomas Jefferson offered part of his own library in replacement - 6,487 volumes. This from a man who taught himself seven languages, proposed a new government, quadrupled the size of the country with the Louisiana purchase, and founded the University of Virginia — in addition to his tenures as Ambassador and President. See what you can get motivated to do when you turn off the television and crack a few books?

Here in the United States, we like to think of ourselves as equals, without rank or class distinction. But while we don’t have the formal aristocratic hierarchies of other countries, we’re often quick to describe ourselves as being middle or upper class, as having class, or to condemn others for NOT having class. It’s part of our culture.

So is aspiring to greater things. It’s part of the American dream.

So who’s “the real deal” and who’s “playing” you? Go back and re-read all the indicators of social class. Watch how people move. Listen to how they speak and what they say. In a very short time, you’ll be able to discern the classy from the classless, the carefully cultivated from the haphazardly thrown together. The signs are everywhere. Just follow the clues.

Want to increase your own class quotient by nailing the dress code for every occasion? Download a copy of OCCASION MAGIC,

http://www.occasionmagic.com

to see how easy dressing appropriately can be.

Occasion Magic

 

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Popularity: 4% [?]

What Should You NEVER Wear?

Friday, May 2nd, 2008

Back when I was a teenager and trying to figure out my own style, my mother took me by the hand and offered some guidelines on dressing. Spoken in a strong voice and accompanied by a wagging finger, I took her words, “Never wear (list to follow)” to be etched in stone.

Until I started modeling, that is.

Ever stood in front of someone you worked for and told them they didn’t know what they were talking about? I did. Once. When I was teenager. I was then told in no uncertain terms that as a high school senior, I did NOT, in fact, know it all. I learned that day that when you’re the fashion editor, you’re paid to render an opinion. When you’re the mannequin, you’re paid to stand there and be quiet. You can think whatever you want. But if you have a criticism, either couch it nicely or keep your mouth shut. The pay is much better that way.

Fortunately, that tense scene was actually a blessing in disguise. I discovered that you can learn a lot more with your mind open and your mouth closed than the other way around, and that those rules I thought were etched in stone were merely guidelines written in sand. They depend on the person, body type, and circumstance; not on some arbitrary set of rules. Thus, one woman’s “never” could be another woman’s “always.”

So remember that next time you hear:

Never Wear Horizontal Stripes”

Horizontal stripes visually widen whatever they’re against. So if you have wide areas on your body (large breasts, a thick waist, ample hips), putting a horizontal stripe there will only make it look wider. So don’t do it. NEVER wear horizontals - against the widest parts of your body.

But if you have narrow shoulders, tiny breasts, or no hips, adding horizontal lines can visually widen those areas, making them look larger and curvier. So DO wear horizontals if you want to enhance an area and get your clothes to make you look like you have a better figure than you do.

 

Horizontal strips adds curves to a boyish figure
Chadwicks.com
Horizontal Strips can add curves to a slender figure

Never Wear Large Prints”

Prints can be fun and flirty, but there are some dangers in wearing prints that are too big - or too small, for that matter. You have to start with your own body and consider the proportions:

  • If you’re small and wear large prints, they’ll over-power you and make you look smaller. So NEVER wear large prints if you’re small.

  • But if you’re large and wear a small print, it will dwarf the print details and make you look bigger. So NEVER wear small prints of you’re big.

Large prints make a small body look even smaller
LaRedoute.com
Large prints overwhelm
a small body

ALWAYS remember the rules of proportion and make sure your prints (and accessories) are properly scaled to your shape and size.

Never Mix Plaids And Prints”

Okay, this one’s tricky and not for the faint of heart. The key is in keeping with the same color or design.

  • If the colors are different, the design should be the same.

  • If the designs are different, the colors should be the same.

  • Vary the scale. If one print has large shapes, the second should be smaller. Make one subordinate so they’re not fighting it out to be the dominant pattern.

Plaids and prints in the same base color can work together
Macys.com
Prints and Plaids in the same color base

Men do this all the time with their shirts, suits, and ties, as do interior designers with their wallpapers and borders. Study different combinations, and then try a few of your own. As with everything in life, it gets easier with practice.

Never Wear Bulky Textures”

Like horizontal stripes, bulky textures tend to make whatever they’re against look bigger. Sequins, fur, cable knit sweaters-all add mass to the body. So if you’re big or have large features (like big breasts or hips) don’t wear bulky textures there.

But if you WANT to visually add a little bulk to a small chest or flat bottom, by all means, try some bulky textures. They’ll visually give you some curves.

Textures add bulk - be careful!
NeimanMarcus.com
Textures add bulk - be careful where you put them

Never Wear White from the Waist Down”

Just as dark, muted colors visually slenderize, light, bright colors tend to make you look bigger. Since many women with large hips and thighs want them to look smaller, not larger, they usually shy away from dressing from the waist down in white.

But there are some easy ways around this:

  • Dress in white from head to toe. Monochromatic ensembles make you look thinner and taller than tops and bottoms in different colors.

  • Use a vertical line to distract. Add a duster, a long scarf, or a long chain to focus attention up-and-down instead of from side-to-side.

All white makes you look leaner than a colored top with a white bottom
JessicaLondon.com
All white makes you look taller and trimmer than one color on top and white on the bottom

But what if you’re an average or small size or have a large top but small bottom? Then you have more leeway with light colors on your lower half. You can wear white from the waist down, either in a monochromatic ensemble or with a colored or print top. It’s cool and crisp in warm weather, and a small bottom encased in white will draw attention away from a large chest.

See how this works?

No rule is “one size fits all” - unless, perhaps, it’s “Never wear anything Britney Spears wears.” If you follow that one, you’ll be safe. But seriously, you’re an individual, and what works for a thousand others many not be right for you. So take that into consideration before you automatically dismiss items because of “rules” you learned long ago. Those rules may not apply to you. Be thoughtful and discerning as you dress. Your image will be the better for it.

 

Need more help in finding the right styles for your body, personality, and lifestyle? Download a copy of WARDROBE MAGIC to see how easy dressing well can be.

Wardrobe Magic

How to Choose the Right Handbag

Thursday, April 10th, 2008

As I was leaving church on Easter Sunday, talking to friends and seeing everyone in their Easter best, I noticed three women in quick succession who had made unfortunate handbag choices. I say unfortunate because while each handbag was beautiful, each also magnified a figure challenge on the woman who wore it. It’s an all-too-common problem.

The first woman was dressed in a lilac sweater, lilac trousers, and lilac high-heeled sandals, which was all very spring-like. Her confection-like handbag was completely embellished with pastel silk flowers, and was the focal point of her ensemble. The problem? The woman is tall - probably 5′10″ or so - and her monochromatic ensemble and heels made her look even taller. Her handbag, unfortunately, was only about the size of a paperback book - too small for someone her size. The disproportion made her look bigger and her handbag look smaller - almost child-size, in fact. What could have been an eye-catching combination looked well, sort of weird instead.

Woman number two had a similar problem. She was sporting one of the miniature hobo-style bags. She had the short-handled bag looped over her shoulder à la Jennifer Aniston - but without Jennifer’s toned arms and torso.

Hobo bag
Overstock.com

In fact this gal, who is about fifty pounds overweight — and as a classic V-frame, carries most of the extra weight in her torso — managed to make her upper body look even larger with this tiny bag. It wouldn’t have been as noticeable if she had carried the bag in her hand, but putting it on her shoulder threw everything out of proportion. The round shape of the purse also echoed the curves of her upper body.

Finally, woman number three was sporting a long-strapped shoulder bag that put the bag hip-height. Not a big deal for most people, but this gal is a petite A-frame (pear shape) with a long torso, short legs, and a few extra pounds around her hips. This style of bag further exaggerated her shape.

Now I know most women don’t think about their body shapes when they go looking for a handbag. They think about things like acceptable style, appropriate color, and whether it will hold all their stuff. While these factors are certainly important, the evaluation shouldn’t stop there.

Here are some other things to think about when buying a handbag, shoulder bag, or clutch:

Size

The size of the bag should relate to the size of your body. If you’re large or tall, you need a larger bag. If you’re small or petite, you need a smaller bag. Otherwise, a small bag will make a large woman look bigger, just as a large bag will make a small woman look smaller.

Shape

The shape of a bag should be the OPPOSITE of your own shape so as not to further emphasize it. If you’re tall or thin, opt for a bag with curves; if you’re curvy, opt for a bag with straighter lines. Otherwise, the shape of the bag will emphasize and exaggerate your own shape.

Long bag Round bog
Overstock.com

Which shape is right for you?

Strap Length

Where the bag falls against your body can have a HUGE impact on how well the bag works on you. If you’re top-heavy, opt for straps that put the bag waist-height or slightly lower. If you carry extra weight in your hips, look for straps that put the bag waist-height or slightly higher. Otherwise, putting the bag against the bulkiest part of your body will only make you look heavier. If you can’t adjust the straps of your bag, ask your favorite shoe repair shop for help in adding or cutting material.

Shoulder bag with long strap
Overstock.com

Watch that strap length

Strap Width

If you tend to carry a lot of stuff in your bag, look for straps that are wide enough to carry the load comfortably. Narrow straps will dig into your hand or shoulder; wider straps won’t. If you have back problems, stay away from shoulder bags as they’ll only exacerbate the situation.

Finally, ALWAYS “try on” a bag standing in front of a full-length mirror. This may involve traveling a bit in some stores in search of a full-length mirror, but it’s VITAL in helping you make the right decision. You’ll be able to check the proportions and the shape and see where it hits on your body.

If it doesn’t work, don’t buy it - even if it’s the hottest bag of the season and EVERYONE is wearing it. Remember, not all styles work well on all bodies, so don’t waste your money on pieces that don’t make you look your best. If you can’t find the right style, remember that there’s always next season.

Whatever you do, DON’T ignore the basics of shape and proportion, as the women I saw apparently did. The only thing worse than wasting your money is looking bad because of it. So don’t. Put your handbag through the paces BEFORE you buy it - so you can look good whatever the occasion.

Need some other tips on buying the best handbag styles for you? Download a copy of ACCESSORY MAGIC to see how easily you can use accessories to define your style and stretch your budget.

http://www.accessorymagic.com

Accessory Magic

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Popularity: 7% [?]

Designer Label No-No’s

Thursday, March 27th, 2008

When my father-in-law took delivery of his first brand-new car in the 1960’s, he and the car salesman got into a fight. It seems the dealer had affixed the metal dealership logo to the trunk (Jones Chevrolet, Knoxville - or whatever), and Weldon wanted it gone.

“But we always put our logo on all the cars we sell,” the dealer insisted. “So everyone will know where they can get a car like yours.”

Weldon thought about it for a moment and said, “I’ll give you two choices: you can either pay me $50 a month to lease that ad space on my trunk, or you can remove that logo from my car right now.”

The dealer removed the logo.

That story popped into my head recently as I watched a twenty-something strut through the mall in head-to-toe designer logos, acting like she was heaven’s gift to retail. In reality, she is - as are the millions of others who walk around with brand names and logos proudly emblazoned on their shirts, pants, bags, and sunglasses. After all, if design houses actually had to PAY for all that advertising - instead of the customers paying THEM — they’d probably go broke.

All in all, it’s a brilliant marketing ploy: establish yourself as a luxury brand, create a recognizable logo, and then slap it all over inexpensive stuff that the “average” person can afford. It got Pierre Cardin throw out of the Chambre Syndicale when he first did it back in 1959, but hey, being a pioneer has its challenges. As his peers soon realized, going downscale on basic items does wonders for the cash flow as the masses trip all over themselves to prove that for $39.95, they, too, can afford to “dress designer.”

Now yes, I’m being cynical. But having class and style isn’t about owning designer labels. It’s about knowing your body type and your clothing personality, understanding what’s appropriate for your lifestyle, and finding apparel and accessories that work with all of the above. I’ve seen women stop traffic in $40 worth of clothes from Wal-Mart while others disappear like wallflowers in thousands’ worth of designer apparel. It’s HOW you wear your clothes that makes the difference, not who made them or how much they cost. After all, you’re supposed to wear your clothes, not let them wear you.

With that in mind, here are some definite “No-no’s” when it comes to designer labels:

1. Don’t Wear the Name on the Outside

Generally, if the brand name, logo, or lettering is more than a ¼” high and is prominently featured on the outside of the garment or accessory, don’t wear it. With the exception of Louis Vuitton, those large, football jersey-type logos are generally among the least expensive items in a designer’s line and are neither stylish nor elegant. Avoid them.

Ralph Lauren Tote
Ralph Lauren Tote
Overstock.com

2. Don’t Buy It Just for the Label

Never buy something just because of the name on the tag. If you wouldn’t buy it if it DIDN’T have a designer label, don’t buy it just because it does. Be more discerning.

3. Don’t Dress Head-to-Toe in One Name

A Burberry scarf, coat, and bag. Chanel jewelry, dress, and shoes. You may love every piece, but don’t go overboard with the labels. It makes you look unschooled. Save your money and increase your style quotient by buying one item and making it the focal point of your ensemble.

4. Don’t Fall for the “Designer du Jour”

Every so often a talented new designer will emerge and “anyone who’s anyone” becomes an instant devotee. Whether the clothes suit them or not, many women flock to this new camp so they can follow the “in” designer. Don’t do that. Flip through fashion magazines and peruse style sites to determine which designers cater to YOUR philosophy, not the other way around. You can’t be a fashion leader if all you do is follow the crowd.

5. NEVER Buy Fakes

Ever have someone steal your ideas and present them as their own? Now you know how designers feel every time someone sells a fake or knockoff of their work. But that’s only half the story. If you follow the money trail of that counterfeit merchandise, you’ll find an ugly tale of international slave labor, pirating, mob connections, and more. Don’t contribute to it. Only buy your merchandise from reputable dealers so you can sleep as well as you dress.

The blight of the fashion industry in New York City
Illegal street vendor
in Lower Manhattan

Wearing luxury brands has long been a privilege of the rich and famous. But with all the choices available to you today, you don’t have to have a lot of money to dress well or even to wear designer labels. You just need to know what looks good on you and what’s appropriate for your lifestyle. If you can resist the urge to become a billboard for your favorite brands and simply adhere to the basic tenets of dressing well, you can look rich and elegant regardless of your budget. Try it yourself and see.

 

Need more help in finding the right styles for your body, personality, and lifestyle? Download a copy of WARDROBE MAGIC to see how easy dressing well can be.

Wardrobe Magic

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Popularity: 7% [?]

The Spring 2008 Review

Thursday, March 13th, 2008

It’s that time of year again: time to put away the coats, boots, and heavy fabrics of winter and pull out your warm weather clothes.

Whether you’ll be working, traveling, or enjoying a little “fun in the sun” (or all of the above) this spring and summer, there are some really cute looks out there for you. From feminine frills and wild colors to vintage styles and up-to-date classics, there’s a little something for everyone.

Just keep a few basic guidelines in mind:

    1. Shop with a list; know what you have and what you need so you can stay in budget.

    2. You will not look good in everything you see (nobody does). Stick with the styles and silhouettes that flatter you most and don’t be swayed by looks that don’t work for you.

    3. Some colors will NOT work with your skin tone, regardless of what the sales girl on commission tells you. If you look pasty under those dingy dressing room lights, you’ll look pasty everywhere else.

    4. Add one trendy, inexpensive accessory (like a handbag or shoes) that will make you feel cute and chic all season.

    5. Invest in classics; go cheap on trends.

With these guidelines in mind, here are some of the most eye-catching, figure-friendly looks of the season:

Feminine Ruffles and Lace 

If you like to get in touch with your girlie side every now and again, you’re definitely in luck this season. From ruffles and lace to ribbons and bows, you’ll find plenty to choose from this season. Just keep in mind that some of these embellishments can make what they’re put against seem bigger, so keep them away from your trouble spots, like hips, tummy, or thighs. Otherwise, enjoy!

 

 

Feminine styles
JessicaLondon.com

 

 

Feminine ruffles
Macys.com

Flirty Sundresses 

Reach for fun, flirty sundresses for all of your after-hours fun. They keep you cooler than shorts and are dressy enough to take you to restaurants and museums. But don’t wear them to work unless you top them with a jacket or light sweater; business situations call for more coverage, so DON’T “dare to go bare” at work (or church, for that matter). These places call for more coverage and formality.

 

 

Flirty Sundress
Chadwicks.com

 

Flirty Sundress
LewMagram.com

 

 

Cropped, Three Quarter Sleeve Jacket 

No, it’s not your imagination - you’ve seen this look before. The cropped, three quarter sleeve jacket was “all the rage” in the 1960’s, and it’s making a comeback for both spring and fall. Pair them with slim skirts, pants, or cropped pants for a chic, easy look. But be careful: because of the short proportion, this style is not very friendly to those who are petite, have a short waist, or who carry extra weight at the waistline or tummy. Proceed with caution.

 

 

Cropped jacket
Roamans.com

 

 

Cropped Jacket
Chadwicks.com

Wide Leg Trousers 

Wide leg trousers continue to be popular, including those with exaggerated or palazzo-style hems. While wide leg pants can lengthen and slenderize heavy thighs and legs, they can also overwhelm very thin legs, so be careful. Avoid styles with cuffs if you’re petite.

 

Wide leg trousers
Chadwicks.com

Wide Leg Trouser
Macys.com

Classic Favorites 

Like sheaths? Pencil skirts? Shirtdresses? Trench coats? You’re in luck! You’ll find all those classic silhouettes in abundance this year, so be sure to stock up on the styles that flatter you most. The great thing about classics is that you can wear them for years, and they can serve as a simple background for eye-catching shoes, necklaces, or bags.

 

 
Classic trench
LaRedoute.com

 

 
Classic sheath
JessicaLondon.com

Animal Prints 

What’s the continuing fascination with animal prints? They’ve been popular the last several years, and continue to roar this season. If you want to add a little “animal magnetism” to your apparel or accessories, just be sure to do so in small doses. This is one print where it’s easy to get too much of a good thing.

 

Animal Prints
Roamans.com

Animal prints
Macys.com

Metallics 

Like crows captivated by shiny objects, the fashion industry continues to favor metallics of all sorts. From coats and blouses to belts and bags, you can shine like a million this summer. Just be sure to stick with the colors that look best on you so all those metals don’t wash you out.

 

Metallic tank
LewMagram.com

 

Metallic jacket
Macys.com

Bright Colors 

Just as nature puts on a bright, colorful show each spring with its flowers, grasses, and trees, so too will you find a lot of bright colors in stores this season. Hot pink, lemon yellow, turquoise blue, lime green - it’ll be easy to stand out in a crowd! Just be sure to pick the best colors for your skin tone. Particularly popular this year: matching shoes to clothing color for head-to-toe brightness. It’s a cute look, but it can visually “chop up” smaller bodies and be hard on the budget. To get longer-looking legs and save money and closet space, you might want to opt for flesh-colored shoes instead.

 

 

Bright suit with matching shoes
Roamans.com

 

 

Bright sheath with flesh-colored shoes
JessicaLondon.com

Artistic Sleeves 

Puffed, petal, bishop, kimono - designers have fallen in love with interesting, artistic sleeves again. Whether you want to cover up, show off, or play “peek-a-boo” with your arms, there’s a sleeve out there for you. Just make sure it flatters and fits. Stay away from puffed sleeves if you have broad shoulders, heavy upper arms, or a large chest, for example, and avoid raglan and saddle-shoulder styles if your arms are very long and thin. Your goal is to visually minimize your trouble spots, not call attention to them.

 

 

Puffed sleeves
LaRedoute.com

 

Angel sleeve
Roamans.com

Statement Necklaces 

Want a simple way to draw attention to your face and update your wardrobe without spending a lot on clothes? Try a few big statement necklaces. Flowers, animal shapes, shiny beads, bright metals — pick whatever you like. Just don’t overdo it (like Nicole Kidman at the Oscars™); scale pieces to your size and proportion for an up-to-moment yet easy look.

Statement necklace
JessicaLondon.com

 

Statement necklace
SmartBarg ains.com

These are my top picks for the season. Add a handful of pieces that compliment your body shape and lifestyle and you’ll look youthful and current regardless of your age, shape, size, or budget.

Need more help in conquering your closet so you can finally build a wardrobe that works? Download a copy of WARDROBE MAGIC to see how easy looking pulled together can be.

Wardrobe Magic

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How to Manage Your Image “Old Hollywood” Style

Thursday, February 28th, 2008

Back in the “Golden Age” of Hollywood, movie stars were glamorous. They looked good in every film, at every premiere, and at every awards show and their loyal fans lined up to see their movies and buy magazines in which they appeared. Whenever a camera was trained on them, they looked like they moved in a rarified circle, beyond the reach of moral men. Sure, they had their problems, but the bad stuff was usually kept off the front page and well out of sight. Only the shine showed through.

Fast forward to today. The glamour has been replaced by scandal and sensation, and we’re more likely to see a mug shot or a crash site photo than shots of gifted performers enjoying the jet set life. Movie star style has been replaced by stylists and designer product placement, and many celebrities are better known for their off-screen antics than their on-screen roles.

So what changed?

The decline of the studio system and the rise of multi media.

In the 1930’s and 40’s, Hollywood studios controlled everything in film production, from finding and cultivating talent to distributing movies in the theaters. Like giant factories, each studio would crank out thirty to sixty movies a year and maintain a stable of actors, writers, directors, and behind-the-scenes people to plug into those projects as needed. Lead actors might work on three or four movies a year; minor, supporting actors might work on ten or fifteen. Most movies were shot on the studio lots on a tight budget and short time frame, and only the most bankable actors or directors could pick and choose their projects. Usually, movies were assigned. If a talent didn’t like a film, that was too bad; if he wined or complained, he could be cut from projects, loaned to other studios, or even dropped from contract. It was a bottom-line, formulaic business, and creativity - while important - always came second. All that control was the bad part about studios.

The good part was that they truly cultivated their people. They took raw talent and turned it into box office gold through training and careful grooming. Actors and actresses were taught how to dress, walk, talk, and behave like movie stars. Some got new hair and new makeup; others got new names and new noses. This training was so complete, in fact, that when the “Best Dressed” lists first appeared in the early 40’s to stimulate the war-trodden fashion industry, movie stars were kept off the list because they had the unfair advantage of being dressed by their studios. Studios also managed to keep a lot of bad behavior out of the headlines because it was bad for business and chipped away at the Hollywood mystique.

That history came to mind as I watched the Oscar™ Red Carpet pre-show the other night. As one actress strolled down the red carpet in haute couture, chomping on a wad of chewing gum while cameras flashed away, another bragged to an interviewer that she would never get out of her jeans if it weren’t for the amazing work of {insert popular stylist name here}.

Wow.

They can command millions for their work but they can’t dress themselves properly or chew with their mouths closed? Hmm. Kind of makes you wonder just what warrants those big paychecks. It also makes me want to wait until their films hit cable instead of paying full price at the theater. There’s no mystery with these people. They’re just the “average Joe.”

That’s what set the “Old Hollywood” crowd apart. Those stars didn’t seem average. They seemed beyond reach. They were like the cool kids in school, moving in an elite circle that others wanted to be part of but just couldn’t quite manage to swing. Even today, fifty, sixty, seventy years later, you can watch a movie from that era and have that sense of wonder and awe. What would it be like to hang out with Katherine Hepburn, Carole Lombard, Humphrey Bogart, or Clark Gable? What could you learn from Bette Davis or Joan Crawford? What beauty tips could you glean from Veronica Lake or Marilyn Monroe?

Yes, there are celebrities today that people clamor to see. But will their popularity survive the test of time? It’s hard to say. The biggest blockbusters these days seem to be heavy on the special effects and light on the talent and storylines. Will the “A-Listers” of today even be remembered fifty years from now?

Will you?

If you’re busy following the crowd, trying to fit in or “keep up with the Joneses”, you probably won’t be. Sorry, but if life is like a casting call and you’re just like everyone else, how can you expect to stand out? The only way you can realistically shoot for a larger part/a better title/a bigger paycheck is if you bring “something extra” to the table that no one else does.

For some, it’s better skills or a unique skill that no one else has. For others, it’s a better wardrobe or manners that make the difference. For “A-Listers,” it’s a combination of both: good skills and proper packaging. Such finesse will set you apart from your peers today, and make you the standard bearer in your field for years to come.

Here’s how to strive for it:

1. Take a good, honest look at your current skills. What’s good? What’s not so good? What could use some work? If your skills are good, then strive to add a unique but related skill to set yourself apart. If a “triple threat” in Hollywood is someone who can act, dance, and sing, what’s a “triple threat” in your industry? Someone who can research, write, and speak? Create, market, and administer? Play, perform, and coach? Think about it and expand your skills.

2. Take a good, honest look at how you dress. Is your wardrobe appropriate for your position and industry? Do you know what to wear at different levels in your career? Do you know how to dress appropriately for different occasions? If not, then it’s time to find out.

3. Take a good, honest look at your manners. Could you dine at a fine restaurant or a backyard barbecue with equal ease? Do you know how to say “thank you” or receive praise with equal grace? Could you pass through a diplomatic receiving line without feeling like a fraud? If not, read books or take classes on etiquette. Nice manners are in short supply these days but still appropriate for every occasion.

4. In almost every industry, those who excel get pushed into the spotlight to speak, write, and teach others. Could you do so with confidence, knowing your skills and appearance are “up to snuff”? Or would you “freak out” and say NO to an invitation because you couldn’t stand the scrutiny? Plan for success by getting your writing and presenting skills in order now.

5. Finally, manage your public image with care. Respect your own privacy by setting boundaries of what you share with others. If you don’t want something repeated, don’t say it in the first place. If you don’t want racy photos published, don’t pose for them to begin with. If you have indiscretions in your past that you don’t want revealed, keep them hidden as best you can - and then come up with a good story to tell should they ever come to light. The Internet has enabled secrets and scandals to be flashed around the world in an instant, and those who seek to curtail your success will use your comments, bad photos, and secrets to “keep you in your place.” Don’t let them. Think before you speak, drink in moderation or not at all when in a group, and never behave like a spoiled teenager. Show class; don’t be crass.

Just reading through this list, you can see why “Old Hollywood” style seems in such short supply these days. Yes, it takes time and effort to groom yourself for a lead role in your industry or community. But you’ve probably already worked hard to get where you’re at; why not go that extra step and enjoy all the rewards that go along with it? You may be delighted by the new company you’ll keep.

Good luck!

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Sex, Dress, and Power in 2008

Saturday, February 16th, 2008

Does what you wear have an impact on how you’re perceived as a leader? That’s the question that’s been burning up the fashion blogosphere the last few weeks, ever since Hillary Clinton declined to appear on the cover of VOGUE magazine and Editor Anna Wintour took umbrage. The story makes an interesting case study regardless of your politics, because it reinforces the importance of knowing how to dress appropriately for your industry and position. If you work in a male-dominated field, I encour